Why is my Basil dying?
On potted basil, dying usually means the roots are either too dry or too wet; basil planted outside more often crashes after heat, cold nights, wet weather, or pests.
If you can already see the symptom
Answer what you can see
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The causes in full
Dry pot or underwateringMOST COMMON
How to tell
The pot feels light, the soil is dry below your fingertip, leaves wilt all over, and a thirsty basil often perks up within hours after a correct watering; outside, the soil around the root ball will also be dry.
What to do
If the soil is dry two inches down, water the pot slowly until water runs from the drain holes, or water outdoor basil deeply around the root zone. If it is bone dry and pulling from the pot, set the pot in a tray of water for 20–30 minutes only until the mix re-wets, then let it drain fully.
Soggy soil and root rotCOMMON
How to tell
The soil stays wet, the pot may feel heavy or smell sour, lower leaves yellow first, and the plant wilts even though the mix is not dry.
What to do
If the soil is soggy or wet two inches down, stop watering until the top two inches are only slightly damp and make sure the pot drains freely. If roots are brown and mushy, repot into fresh, airy potting mix and trim off dead roots; outside, improve drainage or move the plant from a puddling spot.
Too little lightCOMMON
How to tell
Stems stretch toward the window, new leaves are small and pale, the pot stays damp longer than expected, and decline is slow rather than sudden.
What to do
Move potted basil to the brightest spot you have, ideally several hours of gentle direct sun or a grow light close above it. Do not add extra water for a dim plant unless the soil is dry two inches down.
Heat, hot glass, cold night, or temperature shockLESS COMMON
How to tell
Damage shows fastest on the side facing hot glass, in a cold draft, or after a hot/cold night outside, with limp, curled, brown-edged, or darkened leaves appearing suddenly.
What to do
Move indoor basil away from hot window glass, heaters, air conditioners, and cold panes; outdoors, shield it from cold nights, harsh wind, or sudden midday sun. If the soil is dry two inches down after the heat or wind event, water thoroughly; if it is damp, do not water just because the leaves look wilted.
Aphids, spider mites, or basil downy mildewLESS COMMON
How to tell
Check the undersides of leaves and new tips for tiny insects, sticky residue, fine webbing, yellow speckling, or gray-purple fuzz on leaf undersides; outdoors, these are more likely after humid weather or on crowded plants.
What to do
For aphids or mites, rinse the plant firmly and repeat inspections every few days, removing badly infested tips. For downy mildew, remove and discard the symptomatic plants themselves rather than trimming spotted stems, because cutting does not reliably control it; improve spacing and airflow around the plants that remain, and note that changing watering will not cure spotted leaves.
Fertilizer or spray burnRARE
How to tell
Leaf edges, tender new growth, or the sprayed/window-facing side browned soon after feeding, using a pesticide, applying a home spray, or moving a sprayed plant into sun.
What to do
Stop the product that was just used and keep the plant out of direct sun for a few days. If fertilizer was overapplied and the soil is not soggy, flush a draining pot with plenty of plain water; if the soil is already soggy, let it drain and dry to damp first.
Will it recover?
Yellow, brown, scorched, or spotted leaves will not turn green again, but wilted leaves from thirst often recover; the goal after most fixes is healthy new growth.
Stopping it happening again
Use a draining pot and bright light indoors, water only when the top two inches start to dry, and remember that outdoor basil fails more from weather swings, wet spells, and pests than from dim light.
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