is my plant dying find out what is actually wrong

Pothos plant leaves turning yellow?

On pothos, one oldest lower leaf yellowing now and then can be normal, but several yellow leaves usually mean water, light, temperature, roots, or pests are stressing the plant.

Answer what you can see

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Push a finger two inches into the soil. What does it feel like?
Which leaves are affected?
Where does it live?
How fast did this happen?
Several causes can share the same four answers: overwatering, low light, and pests can all show slow yellowing, while direct sun, cold, and spray burn can all be worse on the window side, so use the confirm checks before acting.

The causes in full

Overwatering or poor drainageMOST COMMON

How to tell
The soil feels soggy or stays damp for days, the pot has no drainage hole or water sitting in a saucer or outer pot, or the pot is much larger than the root ball.

What to do
If the soil is soggy or still damp at 2 inches, stop watering until the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, and empty any saucer or outer pot. If the pot has no drainage or the roots smell rotten, repot into fresh airy potting mix in a pot with drainage holes.

Letting the pot dry too farCOMMON

How to tell
The mix feels dry and crumbly or has shrunk from the pot edge, the leaves may droop or curl, and the pot feels very light.

What to do
If the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water slowly until water runs from the drainage holes; if water rushes down the sides of a bone-dry root ball, repeat once after 10 minutes so the mix actually re-wets. Trim fully yellow leaves after the plant perks up.

Low light or normal old-leaf turnoverCOMMON

How to tell
It is mainly one older lower leaf at a time, the vine tips still look healthy, and the plant is in a dim spot or has been slowly thinning over months.

What to do
Move it to bright but indirect light, close to a window but out of harsh direct sun. If the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water normally; if they do not, wait and fix the light first.

Direct sun or hot window scorchLESS COMMON

How to tell
Yellowing or pale burned patches are worst on the side facing the glass, especially after strong sun or a hot window day.

What to do
Move the plant back from the glass or add a sheer curtain so it gets bright but indirect light. If the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water; otherwise do not add water just because the leaves are yellow.

Cold draught or sudden temperature swingLESS COMMON

How to tell
The yellowing started soon after a cold night, an open window, air-conditioning, or the leaves touching cold glass.

What to do
Move the pot away from cold glass, heating vents, and draughts, and keep the temperature steadier. If the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water; otherwise wait until they do.

Spider mites, mealybugs, or fertiliser or spray burnLESS COMMON

How to tell
Check leaf undersides and stem joints for fine webbing, tiny moving specks, or white cottony clumps, and also look for crusty fertiliser on the soil or yellow patches that appeared after a spray.

What to do
If you find pests, wipe them off and use a commercial insecticidal soap according to the label, not dish soap. If you see fertiliser crust or recent spray damage and the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, run water through the pot to rinse the mix, then stop feeding or spraying until new growth is normal.

Will it recover?

Yellow pothos leaves usually will not turn green again; the goal is to stop more leaves yellowing and grow healthy new leaves.

Stopping it happening again

Keep pothos in bright indirect light, away from hot glass and cold draughts, in a pot with drainage, and water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry.

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