is my plant dying find out what is actually wrong

Philodendron plant leaves turning yellow?

On philodendrons, yellow leaves usually mean the roots are staying too wet, although one occasional oldest lower leaf can yellow normally as the plant grows.

Answer what you can see

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Push a finger two inches into the soil. What does it feel like?
Which leaves are affected?
Where does it live?
How fast did this happen?
Some answers overlap: too-wet soil, too little light, normal oldest-leaf turnover, underwatering, and pests can all start with older or evenly yellowing leaves, so use the hands-on checks for soil wetness, roots, light level, and visible insects to tell them apart.

The causes in full

Soil staying too wet or root rot diseaseMOST COMMON

How to tell
The pot feels heavy, the soil is soggy or still damp days after watering, and roots may smell bad or look brown and mushy instead of firm and pale.

What to do
If the soil is soggy or wet, do not water again until the top two inches of soil are dry. Empty any saucer, make sure the pot has drainage holes, and repot into fresh airy potting mix if roots are mushy or the mix smells sour.

Too dry between wateringsCOMMON

How to tell
The soil is dry two inches down, the pot feels very light, and leaves may look limp before they yellow.

What to do
If the top two inches of soil are dry, water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. If the soil is bone dry and pulling from the pot, water in stages or soak the pot briefly until the mix takes up water again, but only because the top two inches are dry.

Too little lightCOMMON

How to tell
The plant is in a dim spot, growth is slow or stretched, and the soil stays damp for a long time because the plant is not using much water.

What to do
Move it closer to a window with bright indirect light, avoiding harsh direct sun through glass. Because low light keeps soil wet longer, water only when the top two inches of soil are dry.

Window stress from direct sun, heat, or cold draughtsLESS COMMON

How to tell
Yellowing is strongest on the side facing the window, often with pale scorched patches after sun or sudden yellowing after a cold night or draught.

What to do
Move the plant out of direct sun through glass and away from cold draughts, radiators, or very hot window glass. Do not add extra water unless the top two inches of soil are dry.

Spider mites, mealybugs, or scale insectsLESS COMMON

How to tell
Check leaf undersides, stems, and new growth for fine webbing, white cottony clumps, brown bumps, sticky residue, or tiny moving dots.

What to do
Rinse the leaves, wipe off visible pests, and treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil according to the label, repeating as directed. Keep watering normal and water only when the top two inches of soil are dry.

Normal oldest-leaf turnoverLESS COMMON

How to tell
Only one or two of the oldest lowest leaves yellow while the rest of the plant is firm, green, pest-free, and still making healthy new growth.

What to do
Let the yellow leaf finish dying back, then remove it cleanly. Do not change the care routine unless the top two inches of soil are dry or another symptom points to a real problem.

Will it recover?

Yellow leaves usually will not turn green again; the goal is to stop more yellowing and get healthy new growth.

Stopping it happening again

Keep the plant in bright indirect light in a pot with drainage, away from hot or cold window stress, and water only when the top two inches of soil are dry.

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