Citrus plant leaves turning yellow?
On potted citrus, yellow leaves usually mean the roots are staying too wet or too dry; outdoors, the same symptom more often comes from drainage, drought, or pests, while a few old inner leaves yellowing and dropping now and then is normal.
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The causes in full
Overwatering, poor drainage, or root rotMOST COMMON
How to tell
The mix feels soggy or stays damp for days, the pot may smell sour, and older lower leaves yellow before dropping.
What to do
Because the soil is soggy or wet two inches down, withhold water until the top 2 inches are dry, empty any saucer, and make sure the pot has drainage holes. If it is planted outside, check whether it sits in a low, clay, or compacted spot that stays wet after rain; improve drainage or replant higher if needed.
Underwatering or a dried-out root ballCOMMON
How to tell
The soil is dry two inches down, the pot feels very light, or the mix has pulled away from the pot edge; leaves may yellow, curl, and droop but thirsty curled leaves often recover after watering.
What to do
Because the top 2 inches are dry, water slowly until water runs from the drainage holes; if the mix is bone dry and pulling from the pot, set the pot in water for 20 to 30 minutes, then drain it well. Outdoors, deep-water the root zone when the top 2 inches are dry rather than giving frequent shallow sprinkles.
Too little light indoorsCOMMON
How to tell
Yellowing builds slowly after the plant is kept away from a sunny window, and the plant also makes weak, stretched growth or drops leaves from the inside.
What to do
Move a potted citrus to the brightest window you have, or acclimate it gradually to outdoor sun when weather allows. Do not try to fix low light with extra water; water only when the top 2 inches are dry.
Nutrient deficiency or soil pH problemCOMMON
How to tell
New leaves yellow with greener veins, or older leaves yellow first even though watering and light are reasonable; this is common in pots with old mix, hard water, or no citrus fertiliser.
What to do
Do not fertilise a dried-out root ball; when the top 2 inches are dry, water thoroughly, then feed with a citrus fertiliser at label strength or weaker. Outside, also consider a soil test because alkaline soil can block iron even when nutrients are present.
Spider mites or scale insectsLESS COMMON
How to tell
Check leaf undersides and stems for fine webbing, pale speckling, sticky residue, or small brown or white bumps that scrape off.
What to do
Rinse the foliage, wipe off scale, and treat with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap made for plants; dish soap is not the same thing. Repeat as the product label directs, and isolate an indoor potted citrus from other plants while you treat it.
Cold shock, hot glass, or spray or fertiliser burnLESS COMMON
How to tell
Yellow or bleached leaves appeared suddenly after a cold night, a hot sunny window, a recent move, or a recent spray or strong feed, often on the side facing the window or on tender new growth.
What to do
Move the plant back from hot or cold glass and stop sprays or fertiliser until new growth looks normal. Do not flush or rewater unless the top 2 inches are dry; if they are dry, water thoroughly and let the pot drain.
Will it recover?
Yellow citrus leaves usually do not turn green again, so the goal is to stop more yellowing and see healthy new growth.
Stopping it happening again
Grow potted citrus in a draining pot in the brightest practical light and water only when the top 2 inches are dry; outdoors, avoid soggy low spots, deep-water when the top 2 inches are dry, and check regularly for mites and scale.
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